Question:
I live in Ottawa where we have pretty sever winters and I am looking into solar solutions to help heat the lower floor (low sunlight) of my house and to keep my house above freezing when I am away for days/weeks. Is there a cost effective solar solution? My house has 3 floors, the top two floors are primarly heated with a high effeciency wood stove. Is there a way of transmitting this heat effectively to the lower level. I was thinking that a water radiator system would work where there would be a heat sink next to the wood stove and have some ype of solar system to also heat the water. Does anyone have any recommendations on who I should talk to and what I should be asking for? Thanks — Best Regards, Andy Ball Marketing Manager IMAGO Machine Vision Inc. tel (613) 728-9831 fax (613) 728-0938 www.imago.on.ca
Response:
Andy Ball and group: First, your wood stove will need stoking regularly, so it is not a good heat source when you are away. But, to be of some help, 1. Use the wood stove to heat water, and store this in a large insulated tank (concrete septic tanks are OK) (preferably below the basement floor – easy in a new house only) with ducting to the lowest part of the house, for convection heating while you are away. 2. Use solar flat plate collectors (buy them from many sources, or build them yourself with some skills required) and store the warm water in the tank. This will also help during your cold nights, periods without sun. 3. If you have $ to invest, consider phase-change material (PCM) which can be installed under a false floor in the basement. It absorbs the heat from stove or collectors, then releases the heat as it changes back to solid form. Let me know more details. I consult on solar heating: technical, financial, regulatory issues Dr. Peter Nuspl P.S. I lived in Nepean for about 15 years, and built and own a solar-ready cottage near Perth.
Response:
I am not sure that I see a cold weather system your page. You seem to be offering a forced air solution. What about a radiator system? What do I need? — Best Regards, Andy Ball Marketing Manager IMAGO Machine Vision Inc. tel (613) 728-9831 fax (613) 728-0938 www.imago.on.ca
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sure Andy, > Click on http://www.acrosolarlasers.com > Dennis Cofield > I live in Ottawa where we have pretty sever winters and I am looking into > solar solutions to help heat the lower floor (low sunlight) of my house > and > to keep my house above freezing when I am away for days/weeks. Is there a > cost effective solar solution? > My house has 3 floors, the top two floors are primarly heated with a high > effeciency wood stove. Is there a way of transmitting this heat > effectively > to the lower level. > I was thinking that a water radiator system would work where there would > be > a heat sink next to the wood stove and have some ype of solar system to > also > heat the water. > Does anyone have any recommendations on who I should talk to and what I > should be asking for? > Thanks > — > Best Regards, > Andy Ball > Marketing Manager > IMAGO Machine Vision Inc. > tel (613) 728-9831 fax (613) 728-0938 > www.imago.on.ca
Response:
>I live in Ottawa where we have pretty sever winters and I am looking into >solar solutions to help heat the lower floor (low sunlight) of my house and >to keep my house above freezing when I am away for days/weeks. Is there a >cost effective solar solution?
How about a low-thermal-mass plastic-glazed sunspace over the lower south wall (aka "solarium" in Canada) with a couple of passive plastic film one-way dampers at the top and bottom of the south wall to prevent reverse airflow at night? You still need some freeze-protection, eg some electric baseboards with a 40 F thermostat. >My house has 3 floors, the top two floors are primarly heated with a high >effeciency wood stove. Is there a way of transmitting this heat effectively >to the lower level.
Circulating warm air between the upper and lower levels might be simplest. One m^3/s moves about 1 kW with a 1 C temperature difference. >I was thinking that a water radiator system would work where >there would be a heat sink next to the wood stove and have some >type of solar system to also heat the water.
A cast-in-place ferrocement woodstove top containing a flat spiral of soft copper pipe might serve both purposes, as well as provide a temp- controlled cooking surface for simmering stews and teapots. You’d need a pump or some way to make this percolate downhill, and some fin-tube pipe or a fan-coil unit downstairs. Nick
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Question:
can anyone tell me how to build a solar panel to heat a above ground swimmimg pool. size is 12f diamater pool, 1650 gall pool.
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>can anyone tell me how to build a solar panel to heat a above ground >swimmimg pool. size is 12f diamater pool, 1650 gall pool.
You might try darkening the bottom for starters, eg a layer of EPDM rubber. Then make a "solar pillow" with by attaching two pieces of UV greenhouse polyethylene film to a PVC pipe ring, and inflate it with air most of the time and let it sink to the bottom for swimming. Then insulate the sides of the pool. Then find a way to fill the pillow with tiny cold soap bubbles at night… Nick
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Question:
Saw prog on tv. Does anyone know of any websites relating to this subject?
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methane? or solar? you can find both at http://www.webconx.com — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 (212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children. —
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Saw prog on tv. Does anyone know of any websites relating to this > subject?
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Question:
I am in the process of fabricating a hot water solar collector comprising a GRP casing to house a domestic radiator behind a polycarbonate screen. I am debating whether to go one stage further and mould the solar collector itself from GRP as an integral part of the housing. Has anybody else done this and if so how successful was the finished unit ? Any comments ? Thanks Terry
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I too am mulling over collector fabrication design. What is GRP?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am in the process of fabricating a hot water solar collector comprising a > GRP casing to house a domestic radiator behind a polycarbonate screen. I am > debating whether to go one stage further and mould the solar collector > itself from GRP as an integral part of the housing. Has anybody else done > this and if so how successful was the finished unit ? > Any comments ? > Thanks > Terry
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> I too am mulling over collector fabrication design. What is GRP?
Glass Reinforced Plastic, AKA Fiberglass. Anthony
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> I am in the process of fabricating a hot water solar collector comprising a > GRP casing to house a domestic radiator behind a polycarbonate screen. I am > debating whether to go one stage further and mould the solar collector > itself from GRP as an integral part of the housing. Has anybody else done > this and if so how successful was the finished unit ? > Any comments ? > Thanks > Terry
Investigate 3d (space) fabric. Some are pricy but there are some relatively inexpensive ones. Since you need it to be black, you should use graphite powder as a pigment. Dixon makes it, but if you know of some company in your area that uses graphite anodes, you could get it for free by removing the spent powder for them. The graphite will make the resin a little hotter.
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isn’t it FRP? and fiberglass reinforced polyester? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I too am mulling over collector fabrication design. What is GRP? > Glass Reinforced Plastic, AKA Fiberglass. > Anthony
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GRP = Glass reinforced polyester
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> GRP = Glass reinforced polyester
Most of the industry now prefers the term, composites.
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Question:
>The DOD (depth of discharge) of the battery pack is a critical >parameter in the number of cycles that the pack will withstand >before significantly losing capacity. This more critically >debated in the Electric Vehicle list. This should impact your >tradeoff on the capital cost of the pack because it impacts >the length of service of the pack. >It would seem that even the number & cost of the solar panels >becomes part of the generator trade-off.
Well I’ve done some more experimenting with the model. In the range I’m looking out, reasonable DOD’s (40-60%) has little effect on the recommended size. Cost of the battery bank is critical. Surprisingly at first, even the Weibull K factor makes a difference. Learning mode. –ron
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The DOD (depth of discharge) of the battery pack is a critical parameter in the number of cycles that the pack will withstand before significantly losing capacity. This more critically debated in the Electric Vehicle list. This should impact your tradeoff on the capital cost of the pack because it impacts the length of service of the pack. It would seem that even the number & cost of the solar panels becomes part of the generator trade-off.
|>
|> > |> >>Homer Express and Homer Pro are two programs that can be found at |> >>www.nrel.gov |> >> |> >> snip |> >> |> >>I’m not really sure how it arrives at it’s conclusion, but the bottom |> >>line is the result that it would be less expensive for me to run a |> >>generator when the wind doesn’t blow, and spend less on batteries than |> >>what has been generally recommended. |> > |> >I’m curious — have you checked the sensitivity of this conclusion to |> >the cost of fuel for the generator? And assuming your generator runs |> >on gasoline, what fuel price did you use? The unusually low price of a |> >few months ago, the unusually high price of today, or something in |> >between? Maybe it makes no difference, but it would be interesting to |> >know. |> |> I have run some sensitivities regarding this. If fuel becomes more |> expensive, the RE solution favors the larger battery bank. The larger |> bank is also favored if the batteries become less expensive. |> |> But if the fuel becomes much more expensive, the most economically |> favored solution becomes grid extension. |> |> My planned generator is an LP(vapor) generator, for which I have |> consumption numbers. The price I used for LP is the present local |> price (about $1.49/gal). There’s not a change in battery bank size |> until getting up to over $2.00/gal. |> |> Of course, if I want to restrict generator run time (which can be done |> in this program), then the larger battery bank becomes favored. |> |> Interestingly, it seems as if the program’s battery model includes use |> of the "total" battery storage when it is making decisions about how |> far to discharge. For example, the proposed battery bank’s "nominal" |> (20 hr rate) capacity is about 39 kWh but it’s total capacity is about |> 56 kWh. I specify a maximum DOD of 50%, and some of the output shows |> the batteries occasionally drain down to a capacity of about 28 kWh. |> |> |> –ron — I speak for myself not for HP or Agilent Technologies
Response:
>Homer Express and Homer Pro are two programs that can be found at >www.nrel.gov > snip >I’m not really sure how it arrives at it’s conclusion, but the bottom >line is the result that it would be less expensive for me to run a >generator when the wind doesn’t blow, and spend less on batteries than >what has been generally recommended.
I’m curious — have you checked the sensitivity of this conclusion to the cost of fuel for the generator? And assuming your generator runs on gasoline, what fuel price did you use? The unusually low price of a few months ago, the unusually high price of today, or something in between? Maybe it makes no difference, but it would be interesting to know.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Homer Express and Homer Pro are two programs that can be found at >www.nrel.gov > snip >I’m not really sure how it arrives at it’s conclusion, but the bottom >line is the result that it would be less expensive for me to run a >generator when the wind doesn’t blow, and spend less on batteries than >what has been generally recommended. >I’m curious — have you checked the sensitivity of this conclusion to >the cost of fuel for the generator? And assuming your generator runs >on gasoline, what fuel price did you use? The unusually low price of a >few months ago, the unusually high price of today, or something in >between? Maybe it makes no difference, but it would be interesting to >know.
I have run some sensitivities regarding this. If fuel becomes more expensive, the RE solution favors the larger battery bank. The larger bank is also favored if the batteries become less expensive. But if the fuel becomes much more expensive, the most economically favored solution becomes grid extension. My planned generator is an LP(vapor) generator, for which I have consumption numbers. The price I used for LP is the present local price (about $1.49/gal). There’s not a change in battery bank size until getting up to over $2.00/gal. Of course, if I want to restrict generator run time (which can be done in this program), then the larger battery bank becomes favored. Interestingly, it seems as if the program’s battery model includes use of the "total" battery storage when it is making decisions about how far to discharge. For example, the proposed battery bank’s "nominal" (20 hr rate) capacity is about 39 kWh but it’s total capacity is about 56 kWh. I specify a maximum DOD of 50%, and some of the output shows the batteries occasionally drain down to a capacity of about 28 kWh. –ron
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Thanks for the link, just downloaded. 73 Don
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Homer Express and Homer Pro are two programs that can be found at > www.nrel.gov > I have downloaded Homer Pro. It purports to model an RE system and
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Homer Express and Homer Pro are two programs that can be found at www.nrel.gov I have downloaded Homer Pro. It purports to model an RE system and compare it with grid extension costs (and cost of electricity). It seems extremely comprehensive and, if the data is available, looks at electric consumption and production on an hourly basis for a year. Inputs include wind and solar resources, PV and wind turbine output curves as well as generator costs, fuel costs, AND battery bank data. (Other inputs are there also). In trying to size an optimal battery bank, I had been looking at the problem in terms of DOD and days of autonomy and came up with about 80 kWh capacity for a system that would produce about 20 kWh/day. Homer says it’s cheaper to cut the capacity in half, and run the backup generator a bit more often. The battery data it uses to calculate this includes the Current vs Capacity discharge curve, and the nominal capacity (20 hr rate). It uses a model, though, which also takes into account the theoretical capacity, which is defined as the maximum amount that could be drawn out of the battery, and is pretty close to the 100 hr rate. I’m not really sure how it arrives at it’s conclusion, but the bottom line is the result that it would be less expensive for me to run a generator when the wind doesn’t blow, and spend less on batteries than what has been generally recommended. Any thoughts, comments, etc., would be appreciated. -ron –ron
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Question:
>Oops! That’s 1,000 BTU per square foot per hour…
That doesn’t look right either, since full sun is only 250-300 Btu/h-ft^2. Nick
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Good advice Nick. Practical and cost effective. However If you have money to burn and don’t like pool covers you might decide to build an enclosure over the pool and use the roof area for additional collectors. John at www.JC-SolarHomes.com
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>I have a potential customer who has an unheated olympic sized pool near >Palo Alto CA. The owner has a nice large south facing gently sloped (20 >degrees) roof that can accomodate 100 4′by 12′ pool panels. The panels >are rated at 1,000 BTU/hour (8,000 BTU per panel per day)…
Something is wrong with that spec… 48 ft^2 might collect 48K Btu/day in January, but 8/48 is only 17% efficiency. >I used the "Energy Smart Pools – U.S. D.O.E. Version 2.0a" pool >calculation software and it said I had to have about 10,000 sqft of pool >panels to get the pool up to the desired 84 degrees Farenheit without >the aid of a gas pool heater. That’s over 300% coverage of the pool!!
It needs a transparent cover over a good insulating cover that sinks to the bottom during the day and for swimming. Heating a pool with no cover is like bailing a bottomless boat. Nick
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Hi Nick! Oops! That’s 1,000 BTU per square foot per hour (slightly higher than typical for a manufactured solar panel) . The panels I am using are the Sealed Air FW-48 (4′ by 12′ panels with windscreen). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a potential customer who has an unheated olympic sized pool near >Palo Alto CA. The owner has a nice large south facing gently sloped (20 >degrees) roof that can accomodate 100 4′by 12′ pool panels. The panels >are rated at 1,000 BTU/hour (8,000 BTU per panel per day)… > Something is wrong with that spec… 48 ft^2 might collect 48K Btu/day > in January, but 8/48 is only 17% efficiency. >I used the "Energy Smart Pools – U.S. D.O.E. Version 2.0a" pool >calculation software and it said I had to have about 10,000 sqft of pool >panels to get the pool up to the desired 84 degrees Farenheit without >the aid of a gas pool heater. That’s over 300% coverage of the pool!! > It needs a transparent cover over a good insulating cover that sinks to > the bottom during the day and for swimming. Heating a pool with no cover > is like bailing a bottomless boat. > Nick
– Zachrey Helmberger Solahart San Martin/East Bay 650-328-7064w 408-505-3303 cell
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With a cover a lot less – otherwise you will be heating the water only temporany and losing most of the heat gain overnight. June – August will take a lot less then the two extra months. I have 400sq feet of inexpensive collector running about 5 hours a day for a 30,000 gallon pool near Sacramento. My pool was up to 82′ on May 20th (very warm spring) and dropped back down to 82′* on Saturday Sept 20th and will be going down hill fast now. The pool was up to 92′ with 3 hours of running during July (and the cover off more). Without a cover you would need maybe 5 times more . . . . . . . daniel – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > How many square feet of panel do I really need to bring this pool up to > 84 degrees from approx. 75deg. F during the April to October swimming > season in Redwood City CA? > Thanks in advance!! > — > Zachrey Helmberger > Solahart San Martin/East Bay > 650-328-7064w > 408-505-3303 cell
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Greetings! I have a potential customer who has an unheated olympic sized pool near Palo Alto CA. The owner has a nice large south facing gently sloped (20 degrees) roof that can accomodate 100 4′by 12′ pool panels. The panels are rated at 1,000 BTU/hour (8,000 BTU per panel per day) at 4 GPM per panel (1,920 gallons per day per panel). The pool is 44′ wide by 75′ long. Area is 3,300 sqft and volume is 148,500 gallons. I do not have temperature data for the unheated pool. Mean temperature is about 66F for September but the water certainly felt warmer than that (pry lower to mid 70s). I used the "Energy Smart Pools – U.S. D.O.E. Version 2.0a" pool calculation software and it said I had to have about 10,000 sqft of pool panels to get the pool up to the desired 84 degrees Farenheit without the aid of a gas pool heater. That’s over 300% coverage of the pool!! I determined this by increasing the collector area until the net pool load dropped to 0 BTU for the months of April through October. Am I fooling myself with this software? How many square feet of panel do I really need to bring this pool up to 84 degrees from approx. 75deg. F during the April to October swimming season in Redwood City CA? Thanks in advance!! — Zachrey Helmberger Solahart San Martin/East Bay 650-328-7064w 408-505-3303 cell
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Question:
I missed earlier posts on the 2004 Malibu. We are just checking out cars and are test driving one now. It appears to be a great car, certainly a step up from the old Malibu. Our service guy is comparing it to the Camry and the Accord. While I realize those two cars have their own following and good historys, I am seeing things in this Malibu I like. For the money it has more than other cars in its class. It appears to be tight, quiet, and has good pick-up. Of course, repair history would be scanty at this time, as it is relatively new. Any recommendations before we buy? We drive our cars forever, both in years and miles, so we want an investment in a vehicle that will last.
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| I missed earlier posts on the 2004 Malibu. We are just checking out cars | and are test driving one now. It appears to be a great car, certainly a | step up from the old Malibu. Our service guy is comparing it to the Camry | and the Accord. While I realize those two cars have their own following and | good historys, I am seeing things in this Malibu I like. For the money it | has more than other cars in its class. It appears to be tight, quiet, and | has good pick-up. Of course, repair history would be scanty at this time, | as it is relatively new. Any recommendations before we buy? We drive our | cars forever, both in years and miles, so we want an investment in a vehicle | that will last. | | I personally avoid 1st year production runs on newly redesigned vehicles regardless of make/model. They typically have the highest problem rates and greatest number of TSBs/recalls. But, if you like it…go for it.
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Actually most comparison reports I’ve seen compare the Camry, Accord & Impala – not the Malibu. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~273,304 miles_~_~_
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>I missed earlier posts on the 2004 Malibu. We are just checking out cars >and are test driving one now. It appears to be a great car, certainly a >step up from the old Malibu. Our service guy is comparing it to the Camry >and the Accord. While I realize those two cars have their own following and >good historys, I am seeing things in this Malibu I like. For the money it >has more than other cars in its class. It appears to be tight, quiet, and >has good pick-up. Of course, repair history would be scanty at this time, >as it is relatively new. Any recommendations before we buy? We drive our >cars forever, both in years and miles, so we want an investment in a vehicle >that will last.
Actually, I think I started that thread, but that was before my family sat in one. It’s not wide enough for me and my better half 
Now, just to be a d**k, does anyone know exactly *where* the 3.5L engine in this car comes from? I have a friend who claims that GM has ordered some Toyota engines and are sticking them in certain 2004 vehicles. I am sceptical, but he goes on to say that Toyota has also purchased transmissions from GM for the Camry line…. Sorry for trolling on this one, but I would like to know about this. Vuarra Quid quid latine dictum sit altum videtur. (That which is said in Latin sounds profound.)
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> Actually, I think I started that thread, but that was before my family > sat in one. It’s not wide enough for me and my better half > Now, just to be a d**k, does anyone know exactly *where* the 3.5L > engine in this car comes from? I have a friend who claims that GM has > ordered some Toyota engines and are sticking them in certain 2004 > vehicles. I am sceptical, but he goes on to say that Toyota has also > purchased transmissions from GM for the Camry line…. > Sorry for trolling on this one, but I would like to know about this.
http://media.gm.com/division/powertrain/products/engine/carengines/04… Guess it comes from Ramos Arizpe, Mexico. I’m not sure about Toyota buying trannys from GM for their Camrys but I do know that BMW bought 5L40-Es (I think that’s the tranny) for their cars from GM.
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>http://media.gm.com/division/powertrain/products/engine/carengines/04…
Very interesting… thank you for the info 
>Guess it comes from Ramos Arizpe, Mexico. I’m not sure about Toyota buying >trannys from GM for their Camrys but I do know that BMW bought 5L40-Es (I >think that’s the tranny) for their cars from GM.
I remember that ( I also think they still do, but I don’t drive Bimmers very much . However, the cast surface of the Solara transmission is very different than that of the engine (I-4). Vuarra Quid quid latine dictum sit altum videtur. (That which is said in Latin sounds profound.)
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"Vuarra" wrote > Now, just to be a d**k, does anyone know exactly *where* the 3.5L > engine in this car comes from? I have a friend who claims that GM has > ordered some Toyota engines and are sticking them in certain 2004 > vehicles. I am sceptical, but he goes on to say that Toyota has also > purchased transmissions from GM for the Camry line….
The 3.5 engine in the Malibu is nothing more then a slightly enlarged 3400 engine. It’s certainly not a Toyota engine. Your friend may be thinking of the Pontiac Vibe which is basically a Toyota Matrix. As we say here, the 3.5 is the "same shit, different pile" as the 3100-3400…. Ian
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> The 3.5 engine in the Malibu is nothing more then a slightly > enlarged 3400 engine. It’s certainly not a Toyota engine. > Your friend may be thinking of the Pontiac Vibe which is > basically a Toyota Matrix.
Funny how GM in the US and Toyota are still a couple (you know what I mean . But here is Australia Holden (GM) and Toyota split up. Rebadged Corollas (Holden Nova) and Camry’s (Holden Apollo) And then Toyota Lexcen (Holden Commodore). — Regards Dan.
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> I have a friend who claims that GM has >ordered some Toyota engines and are sticking them in certain 2004 >vehicles.
The Pontiac Vibe and Chevrolet Prizm before it have Toyota-designed engines. Along with much of the rest of the cars. — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.
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Question:
We’re considering new windows for our house, and were looking at different glass options, including reflective glass. I’ve heard that it’s really good at reducing solar heating in the summertime, but I am concerned about how much sunlight it keeps out. Does anyone out there have this type of glass? If so, do you see a noticeable difference in the amount of light that gets into the house? Thanks, Doug — (Replace "NOSPAM" with "duddles" to reply by e-mail)
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This is off us dept of energy site, according to this its a significant amount of light blocked, but i never noticed it at our place. also remember it helps reflect heat back in in the wintertime. id recommend low-e windows anytime (as a homeowner, im not a pro). http://www.eren.doe.gov/consumerinfo/refbriefs/eb2.html we are amazed at how cool our dark, poorly insulated house has been on the hot days this spring, since ive put the windows in. Coatings and Films Low-e and reflective coatings usually consist of a layer of metal a few molecules thick. The thickness and reflectivity of the metal layer (low-e coating) and the location of the glass it is attached to directly affects the amount of solar heat gain in the room. Most window manufacturers now use one or more layers of low-e coatings in their product lines. Any low-e coating is roughly equivalent to adding an additional pane of glass to a window. Low-e coatings reduce long-wave radiation heat transfer by 5 to 10 times. The lower the emissivity value (a measure of the amount of heat transmission through the glazing), the better the material reduces the heat transfer from the inside to the outside. Most low-e coatings also slightly reduce the amount of visible light transmitted through the glazing relative to clear glass. Here are representative emissivity values for different types of glass: Clear glass, uncoated: 0.84 Glass with single hardcoat low-e: 0.15 Glass with single softcoat low-e: 0.10 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We’re considering new windows for our house, and were looking at different > glass options, including reflective glass. I’ve heard that it’s really good > at reducing solar heating in the summertime, but I am concerned about how > much sunlight it keeps out. Does anyone out there have this type of glass? > If so, do you see a noticeable difference in the amount of light that gets > into the house? > Thanks, > Doug > — > (Replace "NOSPAM" with "duddles" to reply by e-mail)
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Question:
Try ZOMEWORKS, POB 25805, 1011A Sawmill Road NW, Albuquerque, NM 87125 1-800-279-6342, fax 505-243-5187. They used to have them available.
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> I am looking for information on underground or earth sheltered homes. The
… > c) movable insulation for the south facing windows.*
Window Quilt in Brattleboro, Vt 1-800-257-9246 makes a quality roll up shade that runs in a track and seals on all four sides. Five layers of material with a radient barrier adds approx. R 4.9 to whatever r value your windows have. Plus, actively stops inflitration from cracks in the window frame. Easy to use. Not cheap but competitve with other quality window treatments. Dan
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I am looking for information on underground or earth sheltered homes. The main structure will be concrete with the entire house under ground with the exception of the south side (it will have a large window area for passive solar heating). I would appreciate information on the following: a) underground design of structures two or more stories high. b) specific information on the use of passive solar heating in underground homes. c) movable insulation for the south facing windows.* d) windows that are triple glazed with the center glazing material made of TFE. Information that is being used successfully would be preferred source. However, any information that you may feel will be helpful would be appreciated. *I have seen a reference in a passive solar heating book that refers to blown insulation that uses fluidization technology (using air to make solid particles act like a liquid). During the night the insulating beads fill an air gap on the inside of the window and then is poured out during the day.
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Question:
> Might be a little off topic,but are boiler guys the only ones that use > sawdust and woodchips…
They are quite common for commercial boiler use – our school is looking at woodchips as one possibility for a new construction project, and many schools in Vermont are using them successfully – they offer easier fuel handling and automation .vs. stickwood, without the overhead of the pellets – but I’ve never seen a woodchip system on a "home" scale. Many sawmills and papermills burn sawdust and bark for process heat. — Cats, Coffee, Chocolate…vices to live by
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Might be a little off topic,but are boiler guys the only ones that use > sawdust and woodchips… > They are quite common for commercial boiler use – our school is looking > at woodchips as one possibility for a new construction project, and many > schools in Vermont are using them successfully – they offer easier fuel > handling and automation .vs. stickwood, without the overhead of the > pellets – but I’ve never seen a woodchip system on a "home" scale. > Many sawmills and papermills burn sawdust and bark for process heat. > — > Cats, Coffee, Chocolate…vices to live by
You hit on the very reason I got into sawdust and woodchips in my home unit. There are 12 sawmills in my area who will gladly sell you chips and sawdust and 4 higher priced tree services(they are proud of their chipps for some reason compared to sawmills)…..my tractor has a chipper for cruising the city streets collecting brushpiles.Easier to haul in chips form and never seen a homeowner that wasn’t glad that you beat the city to their pile.Though the steam tractor does get some odd looks at times.(The tractor charges batteries ,so you have power at the house while you are gone.Just got to remember ,to return to the house in 24hrs. or less time before the invertor shuts off with low voltage.)Checked flue gas and it is cleaner than fossil electric plants (diesel,NG,and gasoline) …..foundry gasiifer layout(force fired) on the firrebox helped on that. And coupled with a LaMonte forced circulation boiler ……the firebox,steam separator, and aux. section are actually bigger than the boiler.Instead of like on the old watertube/firetube units on tractor and locomotives in times past. Love to talk about plant I built…..tractors are considered hobby boilers with no size limit…..since old tractors got way beyond 12inch diameter normally applied to watertube/firetube units.Same apples to boats as well in Texas. You just stick to common sense US boiler code….of course it don’t hurt to have a ASME friend look at it as well. That and machinist seems to go hand in hand for steam hobbist skills. 15% of most steam groups are mechanical engineers and 75% are machinist/millwright.,with engineer ending up as the "Supersteamer" in time.Guess it is a sign of the times…..computer programmers/electronics guys are the second most common source of "Supersteamers" designing homebuilt automated controls that don’t trash the bank account.. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
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Might be a little off topic,but are boiler guys the only ones that use sawdust and woodchips… No mention of either in the pricing and just wondering…….
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The main problem is lack of people to cut the wood, or lack of people >willing to work (one of the most dangerous jobs out there, based on the >worker’s compensation insurance rates) for the prices it commands, >anyway. > Agreed. The (4×4x8) cord I bought in N.Cal for $218 plus tax came from > a huge new machine that cuts logs to your selected firewood length and > splits the rounds automatically. The owner says it was either that or > get out of the firewood business completely, as he can’t afford to pay > what it takes to get humans to do the job. It’s not like we don’t have > lots of unemployed woodsmen around here; it really is the insurance > and other overhead. > Even with the firewood machine, the economics only work because the > big companies going after the valuable local redwood consider liveoak > and tanoak a disposal problem. They gladly deliver cut logs to the > machine just to make them disappear. It becomes harder to consider > this situation "renewable"… > I guess in a sense I’ve already converted to pellet fuel, even though > I’m off-grid. The "Energy Logs" that supply much of my heat are just > giant pellets that burn in a regular stove without electricity for > forced combustion. > Loren
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$35 per face cord, a lousy way to market firewood. Upstate NY. USD.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your > area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, > maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc. > Please state: > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) > country and region/state/province > currency > delivery included (Y/N) > I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this > info, that too! > Cheers and thanks in advance. > Alan. > — > — rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource: > — http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm > — e-meil: there’s no such thing as a FreeLunch.–
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>The main problem is lack of people to cut the wood, or lack of people >willing to work (one of the most dangerous jobs out there, based on the >worker’s compensation insurance rates) for the prices it commands, >anyway.
Agreed. The (4×4x8) cord I bought in N.Cal for $218 plus tax came from a huge new machine that cuts logs to your selected firewood length and splits the rounds automatically. The owner says it was either that or get out of the firewood business completely, as he can’t afford to pay what it takes to get humans to do the job. It’s not like we don’t have lots of unemployed woodsmen around here; it really is the insurance and other overhead. Even with the firewood machine, the economics only work because the big companies going after the valuable local redwood consider liveoak and tanoak a disposal problem. They gladly deliver cut logs to the machine just to make them disappear. It becomes harder to consider this situation "renewable"… I guess in a sense I’ve already converted to pellet fuel, even though I’m off-grid. The "Energy Logs" that supply much of my heat are just giant pellets that burn in a regular stove without electricity for forced combustion. Loren
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> Here in Downeast Maine a dry cord of (4×4x8) hardwood is currently going for > $160.00 US. Wood heat is going to be less and less of a renewable resource > as it becomes a more popular heating source.
Do you think it’ll become more popular? I was under the impression it was becomming less popular with corn/pellet stoves hitting the market. (I’ve been following this thread with interest as I plan on heating with wood for the next 7 or so years) Jamie — http://www.geniegate.com Custom web programming User Management Solutions Perl / PHP / Java / UNIX
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> > Here in Downeast Maine a dry cord of (4×4x8) hardwood is currently going for > $160.00 US. Wood heat is going to be less and less of a renewable resource > as it becomes a more popular heating source.
The main problem is lack of people to cut the wood, or lack of people willing to work (one of the most dangerous jobs out there, based on the worker’s compensation insurance rates) for the prices it commands, anyway. As commercial forestry has gone to giant tree shears, chainsaw operators have become a scarcer commodity. There’s actually a good supply of low-grade wood (ie, firewood) in the Northeast, particularly with various pulp mills and commercial biomass generators shutting down – but extracting that wood at a profit is quite difficult, especially when it’s all going to firewood. Firewood as a byproduct of pulp or lumber harvesting has very different economics than firewood as the reason the trees get cut. My parents (in Maine) ran low last winter and paid $200/cord, and then proceeded to clip numerous articles about firewood – I also read Northern Woodlands, which is one reason I know the wood is out there – many woodlot owners/managers bemon the lack of a viable outlet for low-grade wood, and some are to the point of cutting it and letting it rot as the most economically sensible option (can’t get enough money to pay for getting it out of the forest and processed into firewood). > Do you think it’ll become more popular? I was under the impression it > was becomming less popular with corn/pellet stoves hitting the market.
Corn/pellet stoves are quite useless without power; since many grid-connected houses use them both as a source of non-oil heat and as a source of non-electric-dependent heat to keep the house habitable and the plumbing unfrozen durning winter power outages, pellet/corn stoves are not a viable replacement for woodstoves. If you have your own trees, pellet stoves don’t allow you to produce your own fuel. I’d guess that very few offgrid houses choose to expend watts on running a pellet stove, but if anyone reading is doing that, please speak up. — Cats, Coffee, Chocolate…vices to live by
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Here in Downeast Maine a dry cord of (4×4x8) hardwood is currently going for $160.00 US. Wood heat is going to be less and less of a renewable resource as it becomes a more popular heating source. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I wonder whether everyone is referring to a bush cord >(8′ x 4′ x 4′), or >whether some people are talking about a face cord (8′ >x 4′ x whatever length >the wood is cut to). >In our area of South-Western Ontario, Canada, the price >of firewood seems to >be rising quite a bit. We heat with "slabs and edgings" >from lumber yards, >which we get delivered by the truckload. One load we >got this year was >about 3 cords of mixed hardwood, and cost us C$425 (C$300 >plus C$125 for >somewhat far delivery). >– >Bert Menkveld > > Please state: > > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = >1 cu. metre) > > country and region/state/province > > currency > > delivery included (Y/N) > Hi Alan, > ~100$Cdn/cord, split, 16in. > Montreal area, Quebec > delivered > In the Quebec City area, I paid 45$Cdn/cord, split, >16in. mostly mapple > (90%), not delivered. Usually, the closer to Montreal, >higher the price. > In the Eastern Township area (between Mtl and Qc city), >I know that they > are asking ~100$Cdn/cord, 4′ long, unsplit. > I calculated that at 45$cdn/cord I don’t save a dime >heating with wood > than using electricity.
D. Penobscot Solar Design www.penobscotsolar.com
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I wonder whether everyone is referring to a bush cord (8′ x 4′ x 4′), or whether some people are talking about a face cord (8′ x 4′ x whatever length the wood is cut to). In our area of South-Western Ontario, Canada, the price of firewood seems to be rising quite a bit. We heat with "slabs and edgings" from lumber yards, which we get delivered by the truckload. One load we got this year was about 3 cords of mixed hardwood, and cost us C$425 (C$300 plus C$125 for somewhat far delivery). — Bert Menkveld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Please state: > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) > country and region/state/province > currency > delivery included (Y/N) > Hi Alan, > ~100$Cdn/cord, split, 16in. > Montreal area, Quebec > delivered > In the Quebec City area, I paid 45$Cdn/cord, split, 16in. mostly mapple > (90%), not delivered. Usually, the closer to Montreal, higher the price. > In the Eastern Township area (between Mtl and Qc city), I know that they > are asking ~100$Cdn/cord, 4′ long, unsplit. > I calculated that at 45$cdn/cord I don’t save a dime heating with wood > than using electricity.
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> Please state: > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) > country and region/state/province > currency > delivery included (Y/N)
Hi Alan, ~100$Cdn/cord, split, 16in. Montreal area, Quebec delivered In the Quebec City area, I paid 45$Cdn/cord, split, 16in. mostly mapple (90%), not delivered. Usually, the closer to Montreal, higher the price. In the Eastern Township area (between Mtl and Qc city), I know that they are asking ~100$Cdn/cord, 4′ long, unsplit. I calculated that at 45$cdn/cord I don’t save a dime heating with wood than using electricity.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your >area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, >maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc. >Please state: > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) > country and region/state/province > currency > delivery included (Y/N) >I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this >info, that too! >Cheers and thanks in advance. >Alan.
The last I bought was about 80% oak, 20% pecan – unsplit, delivered, not stacked, for $25/rick (roughly 1/3 cord). $35/rick split, delivered, and stacked is common for oak here in southeast Oklahoma. — -fb-
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your >area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, >maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc. >Please state: > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) > country and region/state/province > currency > delivery included (Y/N) >I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this >info, that too! >Cheers and thanks in advance. >Alan. >The last I bought was about 80% oak, 20% pecan – unsplit, delivered, >not stacked, for $25/rick (roughly 1/3 cord). $35/rick split, delivered, >and stacked is common for oak here in southeast Oklahoma.
I see the same prices in Western Arkansas for all oak. I have gotten a rick that was cut and split for $25 but had to haul it myself. Ed
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>Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower >>>I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your >>>area. Here in central New Mexico firewood is juniper and pinon (pine), at around $100 a cord. Hardwoods are rare in this area. Pinon firewood is increasingly common due to recent drought and destruction from bark beetle attack. Tom Willmon Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 – Registered
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NW NJ $125 to $150 .. yes a CORD. Lots of older forrests around getting cut for homes.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Northwest New Jersey; USA >$125 to $150 split and delivered, not stacked > Wow! That can’t be a full cord, can it? > I paid $234 ($218 without CA tax) for my last cord of oak (local > liveoak and tanoak) in Northern California. Machine cut, nothing > longer than 15", split small and delivered but not stacked. > Price per BTU is about a toss-up between that and the "Idaho Energy > Logs" which can often be had for $1 per 8 pound log, or bulk 5 pound > PresToLogs as low as 59 cents. The manufactured logs win on > convenience, cleanliness (both inside and outside the stove), and long > burn per load, but they aren’t delivered – we have to haul them 40 > miles. The local oak is mainly justified by its natural appearance and > authentic fragrance. > Loren >> I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your >> area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, >> maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc. >> Please state: >> price paid per unit, do not include taxes >> unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) >> country and region/state/province >> currency >> delivery included (Y/N) >> I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this >> info, that too! >> Cheers and thanks in advance. >> Alan.
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>Northwest New Jersey; USA >$125 to $150 split and delivered, not stacked
Wow! That can’t be a full cord, can it? I paid $234 ($218 without CA tax) for my last cord of oak (local liveoak and tanoak) in Northern California. Machine cut, nothing longer than 15", split small and delivered but not stacked. Price per BTU is about a toss-up between that and the "Idaho Energy Logs" which can often be had for $1 per 8 pound log, or bulk 5 pound PresToLogs as low as 59 cents. The manufactured logs win on convenience, cleanliness (both inside and outside the stove), and long burn per load, but they aren’t delivered – we have to haul them 40 miles. The local oak is mainly justified by its natural appearance and authentic fragrance. Loren – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your > area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, > maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc. > Please state: > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) > country and region/state/province > currency > delivery included (Y/N) > I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this > info, that too! > Cheers and thanks in advance. > Alan.
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> I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your > area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, > maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc.
Very little hardwood in the desert or mountains around Boise, Idaho (USA). Typical is fir, but also spruce and pine are common. Permits are essentially free to go cut your own (1 to 2hr drive away). delivered $140-160/cord, cut to 16inch, split (sometimes stacked 
delivered $120-140/cord, cut to 16inch, rounds Can often get quantity discounts of 10-15% if buying multiple cords. Usually cheapest now thru october. But sometimes can get a good deal in the spring. Sometimes can get prunings and cut trees from fruit orchards. Peach, apricot, cherry, apple, pear all run about the same prices as above, but are much smaller (1 to 4 inch) diameter pieces and scraps instead instead of nice big rounds (4 to 24 inch diam). (The fruit wood stuff you’d usually store in a bin instead of stacking it.) I buy pellet fuel for $120-$140 / ton (2000 US pounds) in 40lb bags. Delivery is additional $25-30 / ton (or rent a 6 ton truck for $75/day). > I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this > info, that too!
Newspaper classified ads… sdb
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I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc. Please state: price paid per unit, do not include taxes unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) country and region/state/province currency delivery included (Y/N) I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this info, that too! Cheers and thanks in advance. Alan. — — rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource: — http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm — e-meil: there’s no such thing as a FreeLunch.–
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Northwest New Jersey; USA $125 to $150 split and delivered, not stacked
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m interested in the dry firewood prices you are paying in your > area. Firewood is normally high density woods such as oak, > maple, apple, white ash, hickory, etc. > Please state: > price paid per unit, do not include taxes > unit used (1 cord = 128 cu feet; 1 stere = 1 cu. metre) > country and region/state/province > currency > delivery included (Y/N) > I look forward to your replies or if you know of sources of this > info, that too! > Cheers and thanks in advance. > Alan. > — > — rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource: > — http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm > — e-meil: there’s no such thing as a FreeLunch.–
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